By 1973, THM units had replaced all of GM's other automatic transmissions including Chevrolet's Powerglide, Buick's Super Turbine 300, and Oldsmobile's Jetaway. The Buick version, which followed shortly thereafter, was known as the Super-Turbine 400. In its original incarnation as the Turbo-Hydramatic 400, it was first used in the 1964 model year in Cadillacs.
#Turbo 350 4x4 transmission series
The Turbo-Hydramatic or Turbo Hydra-Matic (THM) series was developed to replace both the original Hydra-Matic models and the Buick Dynaflow.
#Turbo 350 4x4 transmission plus
These transmissions mate a three-element turbine torque converter to a Simpson planetary geartrain, providing three forward speeds plus reverse. Turbo-Hydramatic or Turbo Hydra-Matic is the registered tradename for a family of automatic transmissions developed and produced by General Motors. It's been a year since I did it, but that's how I remember it.3-speed longitudinal automatic transmission I found that a large, long bolt (like a 3/4" or something) will thread tightly into the inner diameter of the plug, and you can slide a plate over the bolt before threading it in and hammer it all out. One other tip about removing the plug from the rear of the crank: I've read on forums that you should NOT use the trick of driving grease into the space behind plug in order to force it out, because crank damage may occur. It's just there to keep the torque converter pilot centered. It should not push the converter any farther away from the crank. Remember, the spacer people talk about is NOT a spacer. This allowed the cup to sit in the back of the crank like it should without pushing the torque converter away from the crank. I had to remove it with a homemade slide hammer setup that I made with a large bolt. On my 5.3 from a 2006 truck, there was a plug in the back of the crankshaft that looked like a freeze plug. You can probably get the same kit from other vendors. Regarding the flex plate, I'm not sure about GenIII stuff, but if you're running a 5.3 or 6.0, you'll need a dished flexplate and pilot cup for the torque converter snout (Advance Adapters part #712500A). It might run a little more efficiently with a VSS for better mileage (?). Mine runs like a top without a lick of hesitation, ever. I'm not sure what you mean by "runs better". I have the pin number for the ecm fan ground somewhere if you need it, so you can just run the ground wire of that control circuit to that pin. Just ask Wayne to turn on the fans when he does the tune, and tell him what temperature you want the fans to turn on at. You can get rid of your extra thermal fan switch because the ecm has a pin that activates the cooling fan relay at whatever temperature you set it to. Just passing it along to anyone who does the swap.
Not having a scan tool, I went through 2 weeks and $200 worth of guessing and trouble shooting to figure this out. 6.0 and 5.3 O2 sensors are different and non-compatible with the other engine. Yes, the 6.0 harness will work, but you will have to cut the O2 sensor connectors off of it and splice wires into 5.3L O2 sensors.
The connectors for the O2 sensors are different from one to the other. Get a 5.3harness for a 5.3 engine, if you didn't already get a harness with the engine.
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